Terra Tanganyika Safaris
A waterfall dropping through forested mountains in the Udzungwa range, cloud caught along the escarpment above green farmland

Chapter two — Southern Tanzania

Time, Space and Silence

Nine in ten visitors go north. This is the other half of the country.

Explore Southern Tanzania

The south holds two of the largest parks in Africa, a rainforest with primates found nowhere else, and river systems you travel by boat. It is not a compromise on the north; it is a different kind of trip, and the long distances are covered by air.

Why you fly

Two parks the size of small countries

Nyerere and Ruaha together cover more than 50,000 km². Each is larger than the Serengeti National Park. That is the fact the south is organised around: the parks are far apart not because Tanzania is badly connected, but because they are enormous.

One river system ties the two together. The Great Ruaha runs east out of Ruaha, joins the Rufiji, and reaches the Indian Ocean through the delta below Nyerere. Two parks, one watershed, four hundred kilometres apart.

Southern Tanzania: each park drawn as a circle holding its true area, set against the Great Ruaha and Rufiji river system and the Indian Ocean coast
Each circle holds the park's true area at this scale. They are areas, not outlines — nobody's boundary is that tidy.
Five zebras in a line across golden grassland, light breaking through cloud onto the hills behind

01Nyerere — the river decides

You travel this one by water

Gazetted in 2019 out of the northern part of the Selous, Nyerere covers almost 31,000 km² and is organised around the Rufiji. Channels, sandbanks and lakes mean a lot of the day is spent on a boat rather than in a vehicle, which changes the angle you see everything from — water level, not roof level.

Four African wild dog pups trotting towards the camera across bare rock
An elephant facing the camera, ears spread, in green thicket
Two lion cubs playing in long grass
Two giraffes walking through acacia woodland above zebras grazing in golden grass

A boat sits about two metres lower than a vehicle. Everything on the bank is then at eye level, or above it.

02Ruaha — the deep end

Big, dry, and almost nobody there

A pride of lions walking together along a sandy track beside green grass
A lioness crouched at the edge of a pool in Ruaha, looking straight at the camera
A young lion walking through sunlit grassland toward the camera

More than 20,000 km² where the miombo woodland of southern Africa runs into the acacia country of the east. That overlap is why both greater and lesser kudu live here, and why the bird list runs long.

The Great Ruaha shrinks to sand through the dry season and the animals come to what pools are left. Upstream in the Usangu wetlands the river is drawn off for irrigation, which is why the flow now stops altogether in some years — the pools are not only a season, they are a water argument.

Vehicle traffic is thin enough that a sighting is usually yours alone.

Area
≈20,200 km²
Two woodlands
Miombo meets acacia
Both kudu
Greater and lesser
Dry season
The river becomes sand
A pride of lions gathered at a waterhole, reflected in the still water
By September the pools are the only water for a long way, and the whole park is arranged around them.
Five greater kudu standing at the edge of a shallow pool beneath a dry riverbank in Ruaha
A lioness resting on a rounded rock and looking across the grassland
Sanje Falls dropping through close forest in the Udzungwa Mountains

03Udzungwa — the page turns green

No roads through it, only paths

The Eastern Arc mountains have been forested long enough to evolve their own species. Two primates here — the Udzungwa red colobus and the Sanje mangabey — live nowhere else on earth. Sanje Falls drops around 170 m in three stages.

There is no road through the park, so every hour you spend inside it is walked. That is a different proposition from the two parks before it, and the reason people either love it or should skip it.

Closed forest canopy seen from below, looking straight up
An Udzungwa red colobus high in the forest canopy
A waterfall falling in three streams over dark rock into a forest pool in the Udzungwa Mountains

04Uluguru — the other Eastern Arc

A ridge with its own birds

Three hours from Dar es Salaam, the Uluguru rise straight out of Morogoro to over two thousand metres. The lower slopes are terraced and farmed up to the forest edge; the forest that survives above them is old enough to hold species found on this massif and no other, including the Uluguru bush-shrike. Bondwa is the usual day's walk, and Choma waterfall the usual reason to keep going.

A stream stepping down over boulders between ferns and forest on the Uluguru slopes
Farmed slopes and scattered houses climbing toward the Uluguru peaks, cloud along the summits

The line where the farming stops and the forest starts is the whole story of the Eastern Arc, and it is visible from the road.

05Mikumi — the one you can drive to

Open country, five hours from the city

The easiest of the southern parks to reach from Dar es Salaam, by road or on the train. The Mkata floodplain gives it open, easy game viewing, which makes it a sensible first or last stop rather than the centre of a trip. Its southern boundary runs into Nyerere, so the animals treat the two as one place even though the map does not.

The highway to Zambia runs straight through the park. Its speed limits exist for a reason.

Giraffes on the open Mkata floodplain in Mikumi, acacia scattered across the grass and the escarpment behind
A herd of zebras standing close together in tall green grass

06Saadani — where it stops being land

The only park with a beach

Saadani is the one Tanzanian national park that runs to the Indian Ocean. Buffalo and elephant use the beach; green turtles nest on it. The Wami River comes out through mangroves at the southern end, and you travel it by boat, past hippo and crocodile.

The village it is named for was a working port in the nineteenth century, on the inland caravan routes and the trade in people that used them. That history is not decoration, and it is why the place has a name older than the park.

Four Masai giraffe with their necks crossed, woodland and hills soft behind them
Elephants wading through a shallow pool on the pale salt flats at Saadani, a broad tree and palms behind them
Two lionesses on the pale sand flats at Saadani, one standing and one crouched watching the camera

Journeys through Southern Tanzania

Routes that already run between these places, by air, by road and on the train. Any of them can be lengthened, shortened or rebuilt around the week you can travel.

All 36 southern journeys

Quiet is the whole point

Tell us how long you have, and we will work out which two of these it is worth flying between.

Next: Western Tanzania

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